Monday, July 11, 2011

The Grand Tour: Agra

After our day of sighseeing, Paul and I awoke the next day with grand plans for the morning, as we would be leaving for Agra in the afternoon.  He planned to relax in the Diggi's courtyard, and I planned to explore Jaipur's glorious textiles on a shopping trip.  We did not, however, understand how long it would take a book a train ticket from Agra to Delhi on India Railways' baffling website on excruciatingly slow internet.  Two hours, if you are wondering.  And after toiling away we realized that we had somehow bought two waitlist spots on the train.  We didn't even know what that meant, but were so sick of the whole undertaking at that point that we didn't even care.  

After scouting out the public transportation options from Jaipur to Agra, we decided that hiring a driver was our best bet, unless we were in the mood to take a bus with no air conditioning.  So Ajay sent his "brother" over to drive us.

We piled into the clean, air conditioned Toyota minivan and were soon on our way.

We waved goodbye to Jaipur...


...and in no time were on the open road.


I have heard horror stories about Indian drivers, but I have to say I found them to be overblown.  Drivers there are skilled, it's just that the traffic rules and conventions are somewhat more...flexible, shall we say, than they are in the US.  For instance, it was not unusual to be driving down the highway and suddenly be faced with oncoming traffic, a phenomenon that our driver always handled calmly and with great aplomb.  The trick is just that as an American you should never try to drive in India, as your expectations of road conditions can never come close to conforming to the reality, and as a result you will be the bad motorist on the road.

After a longer drive than we had anticipated, we arrived in Agra as dusk was falling.  We had been warned that the city was a cesspool (hugely corrupt state apparently, and as a consequence no money is ever spent on infrastructure) and that was as apt a description as there could be.  The traffic in town was epic, more people were barefoot than shod and the air quality was stunningly bad.  We were staying in a hotel that no one seemed to have heard of (everything else was booked, and this was low season!) so it took ages to find our destination.  By the time we arrived we were bone tired and ready for a quick dinner and bed.

The hotel staff met us with the foulest smelling drink I've ever encountered, quite literally the aroma of a stinkbomb with a taste to match.  We sat on a couch in the lobby, just thrilled to be out of the car, and waited for the staff to check us in.  One hitch, they couldn't find our reservation and the hotel was booked.  Paul roared, I cried, and miraculously they found a suite to put us in.  The room, about twice the size of our New York City apartment, was quite nice in the end.

After dinner (although Paul had a curry, I opted for corn soup and a springroll...after the day we'd had I just wanted something bland and easy) we headed down to the cafe in the lobby to watch some soccer and share a banana split.  Then bedtime.

We arose at 5:15 the next morning, eager to see the great Taj Mahal at dawn.

There were few people when we arrived, but we were greeted by a monkey eating an actual banana.


The wonderful thing about the Taj Mahal is that you can't actually see much of it until you are right upon it.  It is obscured first by a great wall around the complex and then by this gate.


But once through the gate it greets you with breathtaking grace and dignity.  It is perhaps odd to call a building ethereal, but it truly was.  It almost seemed like it was floating in mid-air.  I've never seen anything like it.



As the sun began to rise, the hue of the Taj's white marble skewed pink.



It truly was a marvel to behold.

Facing the Yamuna River, the Taj Mahal (the tomb of a king's wife) was supposed to have been facing its onyx twin across the river, which would have been the tomb of the king, so the two might lay together in eternity.


But the king's son, alarmed by the bill the original tomb had racked up, ousted his father to prevent him from sinking yet more of the kingdom's money into his own tomb.  Paul was despondent about the lack of the onyx Taj Mahal once he heard the story.

But not so despondent that he could ignore the human beauty on the site.  I was so taken with this family that I begged him to snap a photo.  


Our tour, given by yet another fantastic tour guide, was now complete, and we were escorted out.


We headed back to the hotel for breakfast,


and a stroll.  At 9:00 the heat was already stifling,


so we headed upstairs for a snooze before our train back to Delhi.


Our tour of the Golden Triangle was nearly complete.

133 comments:

Sneaky Magpie said...

Well done, sounds like a harsh day. It all reminds me of China - the driving, train tickets, Terracotta Army trip. I would love to see Taj Mahal one day.

Laura said...

Ha! I had the same experience with the terra cotta soldiers!

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Thanks for the sharing about the beautiful Taj . The Taj Mahal, is a UNESCO world heritage site, which was originally built by Mughal Emperor Shahjahan, in the loving memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It is built in white marble as a mausoleum for his queen Mumtaz Mahal. It is now a universal symbol of love, and is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

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Classic Tours India - Sunrise Taj Mahal Tour said...

Hy Admin
What a great post you sharing thanks...
We are offering you Golden Triangle Tour 3 Days this incredible Golden Triangle Tour Itinerary comprising the three famous cities of India-Delhi, Agra and Jaipur having grandeur, glory & history.
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Reema said...

Thank you so much for sharing a fantastic post and detail. If you are planning to visit Agra City at very affordable price and see all the things of Agra then click here: same day Agra tour by train at very affordable price.

Reema said...

Taj Mahal is one of the best place of india and Agra also have other popular monuments to visit in agra. If you want to visit Taj Mahal then book this same day Agra tour by train at very reasonable price.

Samir Khan said...

Agra Mehtab Bagh: It is found the two sides of River Mehtab Bagh which is the site including world's two-third individuals of Great One-horned Rhinoceroses. This is picked a World Heritage Site by UNESCO the recreation center which is a standout amongst the most excellent and enchanting with wide green plants and is home to colossal reproducing populaces of water wild ox, elephants, and marsh deer and other.
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Reema said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Reema said...

Your blog is very informative and to the point. Taj Mahal is the very beautiful place to visit in India And also it is the wonder of world as it all we know just because it marvelous structure.
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one day Agra tour by car said...

Thanks for sharing the helpful information now. it's possible for everyone to explore the places in Agra at very reasonable price.

Classic Tours India - Sunrise Taj Mahal Tour said...

Hello Guest,
Fantastic Blog, thanks for sharing this..
Enjoy the historical tour, in your budget like, Same Day Agra Tour by Car which defines you the beauty of #Agra with #Taj #Mahal & other historical monuments. If you want to visit the most historical cities @ very reasonable price so you can visit here.Classic Tours India
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Splendid Taj Holidays said...

Splendid Taj Holidays offering you a luxury Taj Mahal Tour, It is awesome place in this world & also as #Mumtaz #Mahal , It is very beautiful ancient building ,Taj Mahal is the major tourist destination. Travallers like this building for love, It’s built white marble & It’s architecture very beautiful. Taj Mahal was designes by #Ustad #Ahmad #Lahouri. If you want to explore the beauty of Taj Mahal,So book your tour now…
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Splendid Taj Holidays said...

Hello Admin,
Nice Blog It’s really helpful for all, Thanks for sharing…
Team Splendid Taj Holidays invites you to visit the Taj city of India, Therefore we are offering Same Day Agra Tour by Car . It is one of the best tour for you to visit the Agra city, Other thn this tour you can also visit the Sunrise Taj Mahal Tour From Delhi & Golden Triangle Tour 4 Days .
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ranjith said...


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Splendid Taj Holidays said...

So, the unique post you sharing… I also offer some interesting news,
We offering one of the best Sunrise Tajmahal Tour From Delhi which is full of gorgeous beauty of Taj Mahal, it is the eminent monument of the world which is the symbol of love if you want to know more about Taj Mahal so book your tour now…
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Impressive Holidays said...

Fantastic post… really good
Impressive holidays offering the wonderful disount on Taj Mahal Sunrise Tour by Private Car Tours and also enjoy the beauty of Taj Mahal in our Same Day Agra Tour by Car so book your tour now.
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Ashutosh said...

Just an amazing blog, We are in car rental company providing Delhi to Agra Cab Service, Delhi to Agra Taxi one way, Agra Car Rental,

Splendid Taj Holidays said...

Hy Admin, I am Parvez, owner of Splendid Taj Holidays . I saw your Post. It is mind-blowing and really appreciating Post. We are offering you a unique journey of Delhi To Agra via Gatimaan Express Train . Let me explain you this tour is unique for whom who want to take the local experience of Trains in India, Therefore Gatimaan is one of the fastest train in all over India, which covers the distance of Delhi to Agra 200km within 90 minutes. So plan your holidays to visit Taj City of India ( Agra).

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Taj Day Package said...

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Priya Singh said...

Your blog is too good, you written about the histororical cities of India & colorful culture Indians.
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Harsh Sharma said...

Dear Blogger,you explain us very beautifully about the architecture of Taj Mahal, really first time to read like this post .keep to sharing this fantastic knowledgeable post.
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amazing post
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Agra Tours said...

Agra is always a wonderuful city to visit.
I really like Taj Mahal.

Shriya Gupta said...

The trip in Agra would majorly visit its many Mughal era buildings like TAJ MAHAL, AGRA FORT AND FATEHPUR SIKRI. If by any chance you visit Agra in February you can witness the TAJ MAHOTSAV a cultural festival celebrating the grandeur of Taj with a large craft fair from the local artisan.
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